Kitchen Faucet, Valve & Disposal Service

Drip? Leak? Disposal Dead?

Kitchen plumbing problems start small—a drip that won't quit, a shutoff valve that won't turn, a disposal that hums and quits. Then they become constant frustrations or water damage risks.

The Tankless Plumber repairs and replaces kitchen faucets, shutoff valves, and disposals with one goal: reliable shutoffs and leak-free performance. Owner-operated by Andy Bello, a licensed plumber with [43/45] years in the trade—including decades on Boise's older homes where tight under-sink access, old shutoff valves, and outdated supply lines create installation challenges.

📞 Call/Text: 208-995-6791
Active leak under sink? Call now—we'll walk you through emergency shutoff.

Common Kitchen Plumbing Problems We Fix

Faucet Issues

• Dripping faucet (cartridge failure, worn seals, loose O-rings)

• Loose/wobbly handle (mounting nut loose, base plate failure)

• Weak water pressure (clogged aerator, cartridge restriction, supply line issue)

• Spray head problems (diverter failure, hose leak, button stuck)

• Temperature control failure (cartridge worn, mixing valve issue)

• Leaking at base (O-ring failure, corroded cartridge housing)

Shutoff Valve Issues

• Won't turn (seized from age/corrosion—common in pre-1990 Boise homes)

• Won't shut off fully (valve seat corroded, packing nut worn)

• Leaking at stem (packing nut loose, valve body cracked)

• Leaking at compression connection (ferrule crushed, over-tightened)

• Missing shutoffs (older homes may have none—requires installation)

Disposal Issues

• Humming but not spinning (jammed flywheel, foreign object)

• Leaking (sink flange seal, dishwasher connection, discharge gasket)

• Tripping breaker/reset (overload, electrical short, motor failure)

• Grinding slowly (dull impellers, worn bearings)

• Odors (food buildup, drain connection issue)

• Dead/no power (reset button tripped, electrical connection loose)

Under-Sink Supply Line Issues

• Braided flex lines leaking (compression fittings failing)

• Old copper/steel supply lines (corroded, restricted flow)

• P-trap leaks (loose slip nuts, worn gaskets)

• Dishwasher connection leaks (disposal inlet, air gap, drain line)

How We Handle Kitchen Plumbing Service

Step 1: Diagnose Root Cause (Not Just Symptoms)

• Faucet dripping? Check cartridge, seals, supply line pressure (not just "replace cartridge")

• Disposal humming? Check jam, reset, electrical, mounting (not just "it's broken")

• Valve seized? Test shutoff capability, check for leaks, assess supply line condition

• Low pressure? Check aerator, cartridge, supply lines, valve position (multi-point)

Step 2: Repair vs. Replace Decision

We'll recommend repair when:

• Cartridge replacement costs <$100 and faucet is <10 years old

• Disposal jam is cleared and motor tests good

• Valve packing nut repair stops leak and valve shuts off fully

We'll recommend replacement when:

• Faucet is 15+ years old and cartridge + seals = 60% of new faucet cost

• Disposal is 10+ years old and leaking (seals fail = entire unit replacement)

• Shutoff valves are original (pre-1990)—they WILL fail when you need them most

You decide. We'll show you both options with cost + longevity tradeoffs.

Step 3: Execute + Verify

• Approved work only (no scope creep)

• Leak checks (run water 2-3 minutes, check all connections)

• Functional testing (disposal spin test, faucet temperature/pressure, valve shutoff test)

• Work area cleanup (wipe down cabinet, dispose of old parts)

What's Included

Every kitchen plumbing visit includes:

• Diagnosis (what failed, why, repair vs. replace options)

• Upfront pricing (labor + parts + any required supplies)

• Approved repairs/replacements (as scoped)

• Leak verification (all connections checked under pressure)

• Operation walkthrough (how to use, maintenance tips)

Typical repairs included in base service:

• Faucet cartridge replacement (single or dual-handle)

• Aerator cleaning/replacement

• Disposal jam clearing + reset

• Shutoff valve packing nut tightening

• Supply line tightening/gasket replacement

• P-trap gasket replacement

Typical replacements included in base service:

• Faucet replacement (standard deck-mount configurations)

• Shutoff valve replacement (angle stop, straight stop)

• Disposal replacement (standard 1/2 or 3/4 HP units)

• Supply line replacement (braided flex, compression connections)

• Basket strainer replacement

• Drain tailpiece/P-trap replacement

What's NOT Included (Unless Quoted Separately)

• Countertop modifications (new faucet requires different hole configuration)

• Cabinet repair/restoration (water-damaged shelves, flooring)

• Electrical panel work (if disposal requires new circuit)

• Under-mount sink re-sealing (if leak is at sink-to-counter interface)

• Tile/backsplash repair (if faucet removal damages grout/caulk)

• Dishwasher connection modifications (if disposal change requires new drain configuration)

Typical Time Windows

Active leak? Call immediately. We'll walk you through shutoff and prioritize your visit.

Customer Prep Checklist

✅ Clear everything under the sink (cleaning supplies, trash can, stored items)
✅ Note when issue started (sudden? gradual? after specific event?)
✅ If faucet: Note water temperature issues (hot only? cold only? both?)
✅ If disposal: Note sounds (humming? grinding? clicking? silent?)
✅ If valve: Note if it turns at all or completely seized
✅ If you bought a fixture: Have it on-site with all parts, instructions, mounting hardware
✅ Locate shutoff valves (or main shutoff if no under-sink valves)
✅ Secure pets (we'll be under sink with tools)

What NOT to do before we arrive:

• ❌ Don't force a seized shutoff valve (can break valve, cause flooding)

• ❌ Don't pour grease down disposal (solidifies, jams flywheel)

• ❌ Don't use pliers on faucet aerator (damages threads—use hand-twist or strap wrench)

• ❌ Don't over-tighten supply lines (compression fittings = 1/4 turn past hand-tight)

What You Get

✔ No drips, no leaks—verified under pressure before we leave
✔ Reliable shutoffs—valves that actually turn when you need them
✔ Smooth operation—disposal spins freely, faucet handles move easily, water flows properly
✔ Clear maintenance plan—what to watch, when to service
✔ Workmanship warranty—[X years] on labor

Why Boise Homeowners Choose The Tankless Plumber for Kitchen Plumbing

Kitchen Plumbing in Older Boise Homes

If your home was built before 1990, you're dealing with:

• Original shutoff valves (seized from 30+ years of non-use—WILL fail in emergency)

• Copper or galvanized supply lines (corrosion, restricted flow, leak risk)

• Tight under-sink access (cast iron drain stacks, shallow cabinets, wall-mount sinks)

• Old disposal mounting (different flange types, electrical connections)

• No dishwasher air gap (code now requires backflow prevention)

What that means for kitchen plumbing work:

• Shutoff valves get replaced as a pair (if one is seized, the other is close behind)

• Supply lines get upgraded (braided stainless flex = safer than old copper risers)

• Access challenges (we protect cabinet finish, work carefully in tight spaces)

• Code updates (air gap installation if adding dishwasher connection)

Faucet Selection + Installation Guidance

If You're Buying Your Own Faucet

✅ Good choice if:

• You want specific finish/style

• You're comfortable verifying compatibility

• You have complete parts, instructions, mounting hardware

⚠ Watch out for:

• Hole configuration: Measure existing holes (1-hole? 3-hole? 4-hole? 8" spread?)

• Deck thickness: Some faucets require <1.5" deck, others work up to 2.5"

• Supply connection type: Braided flex (most common) vs. copper stub-outs

• Sprayer type: Side spray (requires extra hole) vs. pull-down (integrated)

Brands we install often:

• Delta (good parts availability, lifetime warranty on cartridges)

• Moen (reliable, good customer service)

• Kohler (quality build, more expensive cartridges)

• Pfister (good budget option)

Brands we caution against:

• Ultra-budget (<$80 retail): Plastic cartridges, poor seals, parts unavailable in 2 years

• Euro imports without US distributor: Parts impossible to source

If We're Supplying the Faucet

We'll recommend based on:

• Your budget ($200-$500 range for quality mid-tier)

• Mounting configuration (match existing holes or fill extra holes)

• Finish preference (chrome, stainless, matte black, bronze)

• Longevity (brands with 10+ year track record)

Disposal Troubleshooting — Before You Call

If disposal hums but won't spin:

1. Turn off power (wall switch + breaker)

2. Check reset button (red button on bottom of unit—press to reset)

3. Check for jam: Insert disposal wrench (hex key) in bottom socket, turn back and forth

4. Check for foreign object: Flashlight + tongs—look for metal, glass, utensils

5. Still humming? Motor failure—requires replacement

If disposal leaks:

• Leak at top: Sink flange seal failed (requires full removal, re-seal)

• Leak at side: Dishwasher connection loose or disposal inlet gasket failed

• Leak at bottom: Discharge pipe gasket failed or disposal body cracked (requires replacement)

If disposal smells:

• Run ice cubes + rock salt (cleans impellers, grinding chamber)

• Run citrus peels (lemon, lime, orange—deodorizes)

• Don't use bleach or harsh chemicals (damages seals, pipes)

When to replace disposal:

• Age: 10+ years = high failure risk (seals dry out, motor bearings wear)

• Leaking at sink flange: Often costs same as replacement to remove, re-seal, reinstall

• Frequent jams: Impellers dull, flywheel worn

• Loud grinding: Bearings failing

Shutoff Valve Replacement — Why It's Critical

Shutoff valves are your emergency stop button. When a faucet supply line bursts or disposal starts leaking, you need to shut off water immediately—not call a plumber and wait while your kitchen floods.

Problem: Pre-1990 valves seize from decades of non-use. Calcium deposits, corrosion, and dried packing nuts make them impossible to turn. Or they turn but don't fully close (leak continues).

Solution: Replace shutoff valves proactively (when doing faucet/disposal work) or reactively (when they fail in an emergency).

What we install:

• 1/4-turn ball valves (modern standard—reliable shutoff, easy to turn)

• Compression connections (no solder—safer in tight spaces)

• Braided flex supply lines (replace old copper risers at same time)

Cost tradeoff:

• Add $[XX] to your faucet replacement (replace valves while we're there)

• OR risk $[XXX] emergency call when valve fails and floods your kitchen at 10pm

We recommend replacing shutoff valves if:

• Original to home (30+ years old)

• Won't turn or feels stiff

• Corroded/discolored

• During any faucet/disposal work (accessibility = lower cost)

Service Area — Treasure Valley

Boise (North End, East End, Bench, Downtown, Foothills) • Meridian • Eagle • Kuna • Star • Nampa • Caldwell • Middleton • Nearby Treasure Valley communities

FAQ — Kitchen Faucets, Valves, Disposals

Q: Should I replace a shutoff valve even if it's not leaking?
A: Yes, if:

• It won't turn or feels seized

• It won't shut off water fully (drips continue after closing)

• It's original to home (30+ years old)

• You're already doing faucet/disposal work (accessibility = lower cost)

Why it matters: When a supply line bursts or disposal leaks, you need to shut off water immediately. A seized valve = flooding kitchen while you run to main shutoff. Replacement cost: $[XX-XX]. Water damage cost: $[thousands].

Q: My disposal hums but won't spin—what does that mean?
A: One of three issues:

1. Jammed flywheel (foreign object stuck)—use disposal wrench to free it

2. Tripped reset button (red button on bottom)—press to reset

3. Motor failure (internal short, burned windings)—requires replacement

We'll diagnose which one and give you repair vs. replace options.

Q: Can you install a faucet I already bought?
A: Yes, if:

• Hole configuration matches your sink (1-hole? 3-hole? measure existing)

• Deck thickness compatible (usually not an issue)

• All parts included (mounting hardware, supply lines, instructions)

• Faucet is new/unused (we can't warranty used fixtures)

We'll verify compatibility during visit. If it doesn't fit, we'll explain why and offer alternatives.

Q: Why is my faucet pressure low?
A: Multiple possible causes—we check in order:

1. Aerator clogged (scale/sediment—unscrew, clean, reinstall)

2. Cartridge restricted (internal debris or scale buildup)

3. Supply line kinked (braided flex pinched during install)

4. Shutoff valve partially closed (not fully open)

5. Supply line restricted (old copper riser corroded inside)

6. Whole-house pressure issue (check other fixtures)

Most common fix: Clean aerator. Cost: Usually free during service call.

Q: Do you replace supply lines as part of faucet/disposal work?
A: Recommended, not required. Here's why:

• Old copper risers: Corroded, restricted flow, compression fittings may leak when disturbed

• Old braided flex: 10+ years old = rubber deteriorating inside (burst risk)

• While we're there: Supply line replacement adds $[XX] to job—much cheaper than emergency call when they burst later

We'll recommend replacement if supply lines are 10+ years old or show wear.

Q: How long do disposals last?
A:

• Average lifespan: 10-15 years

• High-use households: 8-12 years

• Light use: 15+ years

Failure modes by age:

• <5 years: Jams, electrical issues (often repairable)

• 5-10 years: Seals start leaking (replacement often better than repair)

• 10+ years: Motor failure, bearing wear, chronic leaks (replace)

Q: What size disposal do I need?
A: Depends on household size and use:

• 1/3 HP: Small households, light use, budget option (not recommended—underpowered)

• 1/2 HP: 1-3 people, typical use (good baseline)

• 3/4 HP: 3-5 people, heavy use, frequent cooking (recommended upgrade)

• 1 HP: Large households, commercial-grade (overkill for most homes)

We typically install 1/2 HP or 3/4 HP—good balance of performance and cost.

Q: Can you add a dishwasher connection to my disposal?
A: Yes, if:

• Disposal has dishwasher inlet (most do)

• Drain line can be routed from dishwasher to disposal

• Air gap installed on sink deck (code requirement in most jurisdictions)

If current disposal doesn't have dishwasher inlet: Replacement required.

Q: My faucet has two handles—can I upgrade to single-handle?
A: Depends on hole configuration:

• 3-hole sink: Single-handle faucet requires deck plate to cover extra holes

• 4-hole sink (8" spread): Most single-handle faucets won't fit without deck plate

• 1-hole sink: Single-handle faucet drops right in

We'll assess during visit and show you options.

Q: Do you work on pot filler faucets?
A: Yes—repair and installation. Pot fillers require:

• Hot water supply line run to location

• Wall or deck mounting (different than standard faucet)

• Shutoff valve accessibility

Quoted separately based on installation complexity.

Q: What if I have a wall-mount faucet?
A: We handle wall-mount faucets, but:

• More complex access (behind-wall supply lines)

• May require tile repair if escutcheon doesn't cover old holes

• Cartridge access is different (from front vs. top)

Quoted after assessing access and condition.

Related Services

• Sink drain clogging or backing up? — Drain cleaning + repair

• Hidden leak under sink? — Leak detection + plumbing repair

• Hot water pressure issues? — Water heater service

• Hard water damaging faucets? — Water softener service

📞 Call/Text: 208-995-6791
✉ Email: tanklessplumber@yahoo.com

Drip won't stop? Let's fix it.