Toilet, Shower & Bath Plumbing

Running Toilet? Dripping Shower? Rocking Toilet Base?

Bathroom plumbing problems don't wait—a toilet that runs all night wastes 200 gallons/day, a dripping shower valve damages tile and drywall, and a rocking toilet means your wax ring is failing (and sewage gas is leaking).

The Tankless Plumber repairs and replaces bathroom fixtures with one goal: proper sealing, stable mounting, and reliable operation. Owner-operated by Andy Bello, a licensed plumber with [43/45] years in the trade—including decades on Boise's older homes where tile access, cast-iron tubs, and outdated shower valves create installation challenges.

📞 Call/Text: 208-995-6791

Toilet leak at base? Call now—sewage damage spreads fast.

Common Bathroom Plumbing Problems We Fix

Toilet Issues

• Running toilet (flapper worn, fill valve leaking, phantom flush)

• Weak/incomplete flush (clogged rim jets, low tank water level, flapper closing too fast)

• Rocking/unstable toilet (wax ring failure, flange broken, loose bolts)

• Leak at base (wax ring failure = sewage seepage into subfloor)

• Tank leaking (tank-to-bowl gasket, flush valve seal, supply line)

• Won't stop filling (fill valve stuck, float misadjusted)

• Handle sticks/loose (handle arm bent, chain tangled, lift mechanism worn)

• Constantly cycling (slow leak from tank to bowl = phantom flush)

Shower/Tub Valve Issues

• Won't hold temperature (cartridge worn, mixing chamber scale buildup)

• Temperature swings (pressure-balancing cartridge failing, supply pressure fluctuation)

• Dripping from tub spout (diverter valve failing, washer worn)

• Dripping from shower head (valve cartridge not sealing, check valve failing)

• Won't shut off completely (cartridge seats worn, debris in valve body)

• Low pressure (cartridge restricted, aerator clogged, supply valve partially closed)

• Handle loose/stripped (retaining screw loose, spline worn)

• Scalding water (anti-scald limit stop missing or set wrong)

Tub Spout & Diverter Issues

• Diverter won't hold (washer worn, button mechanism broken)

• Tub spout leaking at wall (threaded connection loose, pipe rotted)

• Tub spout dripping (integrated diverter failing)

• Shower won't shut off when tub spout pulled (diverter gate broken)

Fixture Mounting & Seal Issues

• Toilet rocking (wax ring compressed, flange broken, subfloor rotted)

• Shower trim loose (escutcheon not seated, plaster/tile cracked)

• Tub drain leaking (shoe gasket worn, putty dried out)

• Shower arm leaking (Teflon tape insufficient, threads corroded)

How We Handle Bathroom Plumbing Service

Step 1: Diagnose Root Cause (Not Just Symptoms)

• Toilet running? Dye test (food coloring in tank), listen for hissing, check flapper seal, inspect fill valve

• Shower dripping? Remove trim, inspect cartridge, test shutoff capability, check diverter

• Toilet rocking? Test flange bolts, check wax ring seal, assess subfloor condition

• Temperature swings? Test pressure balance, check cartridge seating, verify supply pressure

Step 2: Repair vs. Replace Decision

We'll recommend repair when:

• Toilet internals (flapper, fill valve, flush valve) cost <$100 and bowl is sound

• Shower cartridge replacement costs <$150 and valve body is accessible

• Wax ring replacement fixes rocking (flange and subfloor are solid)

We'll recommend replacement when:

• Toilet is 20+ years old and inefficient (3.5-7 gallons/flush vs. modern 1.28-1.6)

• Multiple toilet components failing (tank cracked, flush valve corroded, bowl stained/damaged)

• Shower valve body is corroded or obsolete (cartridges unavailable)

• Tub/shower surround is damaged (tile/fiberglass cracked beyond trim repair)

You decide. We'll show you repair cost vs. replacement cost + efficiency gains.

Step 3: Execute + Verify

• Approved work only (no scope creep)

• Leak checks (flush test, pressure test, visual inspection at all connections)

• Functional testing (temperature stability, flush volume, shutoff verification)

• Work area cleanup (wipe down fixture, dispose of old parts, protect flooring)

What's Included

Every bathroom plumbing visit includes:

• Diagnosis (what failed, why, repair vs. replace options)

• Upfront pricing (labor + parts + supplies)

• Approved repairs/replacements (as scoped)

• Leak verification (all connections checked, flush test, pressure test)

• Operation walkthrough (how to use, maintenance tips)

Typical repairs included in base service:

• Toilet flapper, fill valve, flush valve replacement

• Toilet wax ring replacement (if flange/subfloor solid)

• Shower/tub cartridge replacement (common types: Delta, Moen, Kohler)

• Tub spout replacement (slip-on or threaded)

• Shower arm replacement

• Toilet supply line replacement

• Toilet seat installation (if supplied)

• Flush handle replacement

Typical replacements included in base service:

• Toilet replacement (standard close-coupled, elongated or round)

• Shower trim replacement (single-handle, dual-handle)

• Tub drain assembly replacement

• Toilet flange repair (if not structural)

• Shower head replacement

What's NOT Included (Unless Quoted Separately)

• Tile removal/replacement (if valve access requires tile demo)

• Drywall/plaster repair (if access cuts required)

• Tub/shower pan replacement (structural work)

• Subfloor repair/replacement (if toilet leak caused rot)

• Mold remediation (if leak has been active >72 hours)

• Shower pan liner repair (requires demo, specialist work)

• Bathtub refinishing (cosmetic chips, stains)

• Shower valve body replacement behind tile (major access work—quoted separately)

Typical Time Windows

Emergency situations: Toilet leaking at base? Call immediately. Wax ring failure = sewage seepage = subfloor damage = mold risk.

Customer Prep Checklist

✅ Clear area around fixture (remove rugs, toiletries, towels)
✅ Note when issue started (sudden? gradual? after specific event?)
✅ If toilet: Note frequency of running (constant? after flush? random?)
✅ If shower: Note temperature issue (too hot? too cold? swings back and forth?)
✅ If leak: Place towels to prevent damage, note location (base? tank? connections?)
✅ If you bought a fixture: Have it on-site with all parts, instructions, wax ring/gaskets
✅ Locate shutoff valves (toilet shutoff behind toilet, shower shutoff usually behind access panel or in basement)
✅ Secure pets (we'll be in bathroom with tools, water off/on cycles)

What NOT to do before we arrive:

• ❌ Don't use toilet if rocking/leaking at base (spreads sewage into subfloor)

• ❌ Don't force shower handle if stripped (can break valve stem)

• ❌ Don't over-tighten toilet tank bolts (cracks porcelain)

• ❌ Don't use plunger if toilet is overflowing (causes more mess)

What You Get

✔ Proper sealing—wax ring/gaskets seated correctly, no leaks
✔ Stable mounting—toilet doesn't rock, shower trim sits flush
✔ Reliable operation—flush works consistently, temperature stays stable, valves shut off completely
✔ Clear maintenance plan—what to watch, when to service
✔ Workmanship warranty—[X years] on labor

Why Boise Homeowners Choose The Tankless Plumber for Bathroom Plumbing

Bathroom Plumbing in Older Boise Homes

If your home was built before 1990, you're dealing with:

• Original toilets (3.5-7 gallons/flush vs. modern 1.28-1.6 = wasting $100+/year)

• Cast-iron tubs (heavy, difficult to remove, require structural support assessment)

• Tile-surround showers (shower valve access requires tile removal = restoration costs)

• Old shower valves (Delta, Moen, Kohler pre-1995 = cartridges scarce or obsolete)

• Shallow toilet flanges (below finished floor = rocking, wax ring failure)

• Galvanized supply lines (corroded, restricted flow, leak risk)

What that means for bathroom plumbing work:

• Shower valve work may require tile access (we make clean cuts, minimize demo)

• Toilet replacement may require flange extender (if flange is below floor level)

• Old shower valves may need full replacement (cartridges unavailable)

• Wax ring replacement is critical (older flanges often loose, corroded, or broken)

Toilet Selection + Installation Guidance

If You're Buying Your Own Toilet

✅ Measure rough-in FIRST:

• Rough-in = distance from wall to center of drain bolts

• Standard: 12 inches (most common)

• Also available: 10 inches, 14 inches (less common)

• Measure from finished wall, not baseboard

⚠ Watch out for:

• Bowl shape: Elongated (more comfortable, requires more space) vs. Round (compact)

• Height: Standard (14-15") vs. Comfort/ADA (17-19")—taller = easier sit/stand

• Flush type: Gravity-feed (most common) vs. Pressure-assist (louder, more powerful)

• Water usage: 1.28 gpf (WaterSense) vs. 1.6 gpf vs. dual-flush (0.8/1.6)

Brands we install often:

• Kohler (quality build, good parts availability, higher price)

• American Standard (reliable, good value)

• Toto (excellent flush performance, popular)

• Glacier Bay (Home Depot budget option—decent for rentals)

Brands we caution against:

• Ultra-budget (<$150): Weak flush, poor glaze (stains easily), parts unavailable

• Obscure imports: Parts impossible to source, warranty claims difficult

If We're Supplying the Toilet

We'll recommend based on:

• Your budget ($250-$500 for quality mid-tier)

• Rough-in measurement (12" standard unless you measure differently)

• Bowl shape preference (elongated = comfort, round = space-saving)

• Flush performance (WaterSense 1.28 gpf = water savings)

Shower Valve Cartridge Types — What We Service

Most common shower valve brands/types:

Delta (most common in Boise homes)

• RP19804 (1300/1400 series single-handle)

• RP50587 (1700 series single-handle)

• RP32104 (2-handle hot/cold stems)

• Availability: Excellent (stocked locally)

Moen (pressure-balancing cartridges)

• 1222 (Posi-Temp single-handle)

• 1225 (older Posi-Temp)

• Availability: Good (stocked locally)

Kohler (cartridge + trim variations)

• GP77759 (Rite-Temp pressure-balancing)

• GP30420 (older single-control)

• Availability: Moderate (may require ordering)

Price-Pfister (budget-friendly)

• 974-015 (single-handle)

• Availability: Moderate

Older/obsolete brands:

• Sayco, Gerber, Eljer (pre-1990)—cartridges often unavailable

• If obsolete: Valve body replacement required (requires tile access, quoted separately)

Toilet Troubleshooting — Before You Call

If toilet runs constantly:

1. Lift tank lid (check water level—should be 1" below overflow tube)

2. Inspect flapper (lift chain, look for deterioration, mineral buildup)

3. Check fill valve (listen for hissing—may be stuck open)

4. Dye test: Add food coloring to tank, wait 15 min without flushing—if color appears in bowl, flapper leaking

If toilet rocks/unstable:

1. Tighten closet bolts (nuts at base of toilet—hand-tight + 1/4 turn)

2. Still rocking? Wax ring likely failed or flange is broken—call us immediately (sewage seepage risk)

If weak flush:

1. Check tank water level (should be 1" below overflow tube—adjust float)

2. Clean rim jets (under toilet rim—poke holes with wire to remove mineral buildup)

3. Check flapper opening (should lift fully during flush—adjust chain length)

When to call (don't DIY):

• Toilet leaking at base (wax ring failure = sewage seepage)

• Toilet rocking (flange failure = structural issue)

• Tank cracked (requires replacement)

• Multiple components failing (cost approaches replacement)

Shower Temperature Control — Anti-Scald Protection

Why shower temperature matters:

• Scalding risk: Water >120°F causes burns in seconds (especially kids, elderly)

• Code requirement: Modern valves have anti-scald protection (pressure-balancing or thermostatic)

• Older valves: Pre-1990 valves often have NO temperature limit—full hot water can reach 140°F+

How we set temperature limits:

1. Remove shower trim (expose cartridge)

2. Locate temperature limit stop (plastic ring or screw)

3. Adjust to max 120°F (safe, comfortable)

4. Test with thermometer

5. Reinstall trim

If your shower has temperature swings:

• Pressure-balancing cartridge failing (senses pressure change, adjusts mix—when worn, fails to compensate)

• Supply pressure fluctuation (toilet flush, washing machine = pressure drop = temp swing)

• Cartridge scale buildup (hard water deposits restrict flow passages)

Solution: Cartridge replacement + set temperature limit stop correctly.

Wax Ring vs. Wax-Free Toilet Seals

Traditional wax ring:

• Pros: Proven design, seals irregular flange, cheap ($5-10)

• Cons: Messy, hardens over time, can't be reused, fails if toilet rocks

Wax-free seals (rubber/foam):

• Pros: Reusable, cleaner install, better for uneven floors, can re-seat toilet

• Cons: More expensive ($15-25), may not seal deep flanges as well

What we install:

• Wax ring with plastic horn (most common—good seal, guides toilet onto flange)

• Extra-thick wax ring (if flange is below floor level)

• Wax-free (if customer requests or multiple resets expected)

Critical: Wax ring ONLY works if toilet sits firmly on flange. If flange is broken or subfloor rotted, repair required first (otherwise seal fails immediately).

Water-Saving Upgrades — Reduce Bills

Toilet upgrades:

• Old toilet: 3.5-7 gallons/flush (pre-1994)

• New WaterSense toilet: 1.28 gallons/flush

• Savings: 4-person household = 10,000-20,000 gallons/year = $50-100/year

• Payback: 3-5 years (toilet replacement $300-600 installed)

Shower upgrades:

• Old shower head: 3-5 gallons/minute

• New WaterSense shower head: 2.0 gallons/minute (or less)

• Savings: 4-person household = 7,000-12,000 gallons/year = $35-60/year

• Payback: <1 year (shower head $30-100)

We'll calculate your specific savings based on current fixtures and water rates.

Service Area — Treasure Valley

Boise (North End, East End, Bench, Downtown, Foothills) • Meridian • Eagle • Kuna • Star • Nampa • Caldwell • Middleton • Nearby Treasure Valley communities

FAQ — Bathroom Plumbing

Q: Why does my toilet keep running?
A: Most common causes (in order):

1. Flapper worn (deteriorated rubber, not sealing)—$25-40 repair

2. Fill valve stuck (mineral buildup, internal seal worn)—$40-60 repair

3. Tank-to-bowl leak (flush valve gasket leaking, causing "phantom flush")—$60-80 repair

DIY test: Add food coloring to tank, wait 15 min without flushing. If color appears in bowl, flapper is leaking.

Cost of running toilet: 200 gallons/day = $40-60/month wasted water = $480-720/year.

Q: My shower temperature swings—what causes that?
A: One of three issues:

1. Pressure-balancing cartridge failing (common in 10+ year-old valves)—senses pressure changes (toilet flush, washer fills), adjusts hot/cold mix to maintain temp. When worn, it fails to compensate fast enough.

2. Supply pressure fluctuation (whole-house issue)—if multiple fixtures cause swings, main pressure regulator may be failing.

3. Cartridge scale buildup (hard water)—restricts flow passages, prevents proper mixing.

Solution: Cartridge replacement (1.5-2.5 hours, $150-250 depending on valve brand).

Q: Can you install a toilet I purchased?
A: Yes, if:

• Rough-in matches (measure from wall to drain bolts—12" standard)

• All parts included (bowl, tank, seat, wax ring, bolts, supply line)

• Toilet is new/unused (we can't warranty used fixtures)

We'll verify compatibility during visit. If it doesn't fit, we'll explain why and offer alternatives.

Q: What if there's water damage from toilet leak?
A: We'll:

1. Stop the leak (replace wax ring, repair flange)

2. Assess subfloor condition (probe for soft spots, rot)

3. Outline next steps:

   • Minor dampness: Dry out, monitor (often no repair needed)

   • Subfloor soft/rotted: Repair required (quoted separately—plywood replacement, joist sistering if severe)

   • Mold present: Specialist required (we'll coordinate or refer)

Restoration work quoted separately unless minor and included in base scope.

Q: How long do toilet repairs take?
A:

• Flapper/fill valve: 45-90 min

• Wax ring replacement: 1-2 hours

• Full toilet replacement: 2-3 hours

• Toilet flange repair: 2-4 hours (if subfloor access required)

Q: Should I replace a toilet that's 20+ years old even if it's working?
A: Probably yes. Here's why:

• Water waste: 3.5-7 gpf (old) vs. 1.28 gpf (new) = 10,000-20,000 gallons/year wasted

• Cost: $50-100/year in wasted water = payback in 3-5 years

• Efficiency: Modern toilets flush better with less water (better bowl design, flush valve technology)

• Reliability: 20-year-old internals failing = multiple repair visits

We'll calculate your specific payback period.

Q: Can you replace a shower valve without removing tile?
A: Depends on valve type:

• Trim-only replacement: Yes (cartridge + trim can be swapped from front)—1.5-2.5 hours

• Valve body replacement: No (requires tile removal for wall access)—quoted separately after inspection

Most common scenario: Cartridge replacement (no tile removal) solves dripping, temperature swings, shutoff issues.

Q: What's the difference between a pressure-balancing valve and a thermostatic valve?
A:

• Pressure-balancing (most common): Senses pressure changes, adjusts hot/cold mix to maintain temperature. If cold water pressure drops (toilet flush), reduces hot to compensate.

• Thermostatic: Directly measures water temperature, adjusts mix to maintain set temp. More expensive, more precise, better for luxury showers.

Most Boise homes have pressure-balancing valves. Thermostatic usually only in high-end remodels.

Q: Why does my toilet rock?
A: One of three issues:

1. Closet bolts loose (nuts at base)—tighten to hand-tight + 1/4 turn

2. Wax ring compressed (toilet settles over time)—wax squishes, toilet sits lower = rocks on uneven floor

3. Flange broken or subfloor rotted (water damage from previous leak)—requires repair before toilet can be secured

If tightening bolts doesn't fix it, call us immediately—rocking toilet = wax ring seal broken = sewage seepage.

Q: Can you add a bidet seat to my existing toilet?
A: Yes, if:

• Toilet has standard bolt spacing (5.5" bolt-to-bolt)

• GFCI outlet within 3-4 feet (code requirement for electric bidet seats)

• Water supply valve accessible (bidet needs T-adapter)

We can install bidet seat you provide (Toto Washlet, Bio Bidet, etc.) or recommend models.

Q: What if my shower head has low pressure?
A: Check in order:

1. Shower head flow restrictor (remove shower head, look for plastic insert—may be clogged or over-restrictive)

2. Shower head aerator/screen (mineral buildup—soak in vinegar)

3. Shower arm (internal corrosion)

4. Valve cartridge (restricted passages)

5. Supply shutoffs (partially closed)

6. Whole-house pressure (check other fixtures)

Most common fix: Clean flow restrictor/aerator. Cost: Usually free during service call.

Q: Do you handle tub-to-shower conversions?
A: Yes—quoted separately based on scope:

• Remove tub (cast iron = heavy, requires disposal)

• Install shower pan (tile-ready or acrylic)

• Valve height adjustment (shower valve higher than tub valve)

• Surround installation (tile, acrylic, fiberglass)

• Drain relocation (if needed)

Typical cost: $2,000-5,000+ depending on materials, access, structural work.

Q: What if my tub won't drain?
A: Usually one of:

• Tub stopper stuck (trip-lever mechanism needs adjustment)

• Hair clog in drain (see drain cleaning service)

• Drum trap full (older homes—requires access, cleanout)

If stopper adjustment doesn't fix it, we'll diagnose drain obstruction (see drain cleaning page).

Related Services

• Bathroom drain backing up? — Drain cleaning + repair

• Hidden leak behind tile/wall? — Leak detection + plumbing repair

• Hot water issues affecting shower? — Water heater service

• Hard water staining fixtures? — Water softener service

📞 Call/Text: 208-995-6791
✉ Email: tanklessplumber@yahoo.com

Running toilet? Dripping shower? Let's fix it.