Water Softener & Conditioner Service

Hard Water Spots? Scale Buildup? Softener Not Softening?

Boise's water averages 180-220 ppm hardness—that's hard enough to destroy tankless water heaters, coat fixtures with scale, and leave soap scum on everything. If your water softener isn't performing or your salt-free conditioner isn't controlling scale, you're not getting the protection you paid for.

The Tankless Plumber services water softeners and conditioners with one goal: restore performance and set realistic expectations. Owner-operated by Andy Bello, a licensed plumber with [43/45] years in the trade—including decades on Boise homes where hard water wreaks havoc on tankless systems, fixtures, and appliances.

📞 Call/Text: 208-995-6791

System not working? Let's diagnose and fix it.

Common Water Softener & Conditioner Problems

Water Softener Issues

• Salt bridging (hard crust forms in brine tank, blocks salt from dissolving)

• Salt mushing (salt turns to sludge at tank bottom, clogs pickup)

• Resin bed fouling (iron, sediment, or chlorine damage resin beads)

• No regeneration (timer failed, motor stuck, valve seized)

• Constant regeneration (valve stuck, float switch failed, drain line clogged)

• Hard water breakthrough (system regenerates but water still hard = resin exhausted or settings wrong)

• Low water pressure (sediment in valve, resin beads in plumbing, bypass partially closed)

• Error codes (electronic controls, motor failure, sensor issues)

• Leaks (bypass valves, drain line, brine tank connections)

• Brine tank overflow (float valve stuck, drain line clogged)

Salt-Free Conditioner/Descaler Issues

• Scale still forming (unit not sized correctly, media exhausted, flow rate too high)

• No performance change (template-assisted crystallization systems don't remove hardness—they prevent scale adhesion)

• Media replacement overdue (catalytic media lasts 3-5 years, then needs replacement)

• Pressure drop (sediment pre-filter clogged, media bed compacted)

• Leaks (housing O-rings, bypass valves)

System Sizing/Settings Issues

• Undersized system (grains capacity too low for household water use)

• Hardness setting wrong (system regenerates too often or not often enough)

• Salt dose incorrect (too little = incomplete regeneration; too much = waste)

• Regeneration schedule wrong (time-based vs. demand-based)

• Flow rate exceeds capacity (pressure drop, channeling in resin bed)

Salt-Based Softeners vs. Salt-Free Conditioners — What's the Difference?

Salt-Based Water Softeners (Ion Exchange)

How they work: Exchange calcium/magnesium ions (hardness) for sodium ions (soft water)

✅ Pros:

• Actually softens water (removes hardness minerals)

• Measurable results (hardness drops from 200 ppm to 0-10 ppm)

• Protects tankless water heaters (no scale buildup = longer life, fewer repairs)

• Better lather (soap/shampoo works better)

• No spots on dishes/glass

⚠ Cons:

• Requires salt (50 lbs bags, monthly refills)

• Requires drain line (regeneration backwash)

• Adds sodium to water (~12 mg/L per grain of hardness removed)

• Wastewater (5-10 gallons per regeneration)

• Maintenance (salt refills, resin bed cleaning every 5-10 years)

Best for: Boise homes with tankless water heaters, anyone who wants measurably soft water, households that don't mind salt maintenance.

Salt-Free Conditioners/Descalers (Template-Assisted Crystallization or Catalytic Media)

How they work: Change hardness minerals into microscopic crystals that don't adhere to surfaces (hardness minerals stay in water, but theoretically don't form scale)

✅ Pros:

• No salt required (no bags to haul)

• No drain line required (no backwash)

• No sodium added to water

• Lower maintenance (media replacement every 3-5 years)

• No wastewater

⚠ Cons:

• Does NOT remove hardness (water is still hard—just less likely to form scale)

• Variable performance (works better for some people than others)

• Won't prevent tankless scale as well (most manufacturers still require descaling every 12-18 months)

• No soap/lather improvement (hardness minerals still present)

• Still get spots (less severe, but not eliminated)

Best for: Homes with standard tank water heaters, people who want low-maintenance scale reduction (not elimination), households concerned about sodium or wastewater.

Boise Hard Water Stats — Why Treatment Matters

Boise water hardness: 180-220 ppm (milligrams per liter calcium carbonate)

• Classification: Hard to Very Hard (USGS scale)

• Grains per gallon: 10.5-12.8 gpg (conversion: ppm ÷ 17.1)

What that means for your home:

• Tankless water heaters: Scale buildup in heat exchanger = error codes, efficiency loss, early failure—descaling required every 12-18 months even with softener

• Fixtures: White scale on faucets, shower heads, glass

• Appliances: Dishwasher, washing machine scale buildup = reduced efficiency

• Plumbing: Galvanized pipes (pre-1980 homes) corrode faster with softened water (see older home note below)

• Water heater tanks: Sediment buildup = rumbling, efficiency loss, tank failure

Cost of untreated hard water:

• Tankless descaling: $150-250/year

• Fixture replacement: $200-500 from scale damage

• Water heater lifespan reduction: 3-5 years (10-15 years with treatment vs. 6-10 without)

• Soap/detergent waste: 50% more soap needed with hard water

How We Service Water Softeners & Conditioners

Step 1: Inspect System Condition

• Check brine tank: Salt level, bridging, mushing, water level

• Check resin tank: Bypass position, pressure, flow direction

• Check drain line: Clogs, air gaps, backflow prevention

• Check connections: Leaks, corrosion, loose fittings

• Note settings: Hardness level, salt dose, regeneration schedule, flow rate

Step 2: Diagnose Performance Issues

• Test water hardness: Inlet (raw) vs. outlet (treated)—should be 0-3 gpg on outlet if softener working

• Check regeneration cycle: Manual trigger, listen for valve movement, verify drain flow

• Inspect valve internals: Sediment, resin beads in valve body, o-ring wear

• Check resin bed: Channeling, fouling, iron staining (visible through inspection port if equipped)

• Assess settings: Hardness input correct? Salt dose appropriate? Regeneration frequency right for usage?

Step 3: Service + Cleaning (As Applicable)

Water Softener Service Tasks:

• Break up salt bridge (break crust, remove chunks, add new salt)

• Remove salt mush (scoop out sludge from tank bottom)

• Clean brine tank (empty, rinse, sanitize if needed)

• Resin bed cleaning (iron removal treatment if fouled)

• Valve cleaning (disassemble, clean sediment/debris, replace o-rings)

• Injector cleaning (remove scale from venturi/injector)

• Reset settings (verify hardness input, salt dose, regeneration schedule)

• Manual regeneration (force regeneration cycle, verify operation)

Salt-Free Conditioner Service Tasks:

• Replace sediment pre-filter (if equipped)

• Inspect media condition (catalytic media exhaustion check)

• Clean housing (if sediment buildup)

• Check bypass valves (ensure full flow through system)

• Verify sizing (flow rate vs. capacity)

Step 4: Verify Operation + Set Expectations

For water softeners:

• Test outlet hardness (should be 0-3 gpg after regeneration)

• Verify regeneration cycle (listen for valve movement, check drain flow)

• Explain maintenance schedule (salt refills, resin bed cleaning)

• Set realistic expectations (soft water ≠ zero maintenance; tankless heaters still need descaling)

For salt-free conditioners:

• Explain performance limitations (hardness minerals still present, scale reduction not elimination)

• Set realistic expectations (may still need periodic descaling on tankless units)

• Recommend monitoring (watch for scale formation on fixtures, glass)

What's Included

Every water quality service visit includes:

• System inspection (brine tank, resin tank, valves, connections, settings)

• Hardness testing (inlet vs. outlet—verify performance)

• Diagnosis (what's wrong, why, repair vs. replace options)

• Service/cleaning (as scoped—salt bridge removal, valve cleaning, etc.)

• Settings verification (hardness level, salt dose, regeneration schedule)

• Operation walkthrough (how system works, maintenance requirements)

Typical service tasks included in base visit:

• Salt bridge breaking

• Salt mush removal (if accessible)

• Brine tank cleaning (basic rinse)

• Valve inspection/cleaning

• Injector cleaning

• Settings reset

• Manual regeneration cycle

• Hardness testing (basic test strips)

What's NOT Included (Unless Quoted Separately)

• Full system replacement (if resin tank, control valve, or brine tank failed beyond repair)

• Resin bed replacement (if fouled beyond cleaning—requires new resin)

• Control valve replacement (if motor, circuit board, or valve body failed)

• System relocation (moving to different location in house)

• Water testing beyond hardness (iron, pH, TDS, chlorine, etc.—lab testing available for fee)

• Whole-home filtration install (reverse osmosis, sediment filters, carbon filters—quoted separately)

• Plumbing modifications (if loop isn't installed, or bypass valves need replacing)

Typical Time Windows

Customer Prep Checklist

✅ Clear access to system, drain line, outlet (electrical if equipped)
✅ Note performance issues (when did it start? spots on dishes? salt usage?)
✅ Check salt level (take photo if uncertain)
✅ Take photo of control panel (settings, error codes if displayed)
✅ Note brand/model (label on resin tank or control valve)
✅ Locate main water shutoff (in case we need to isolate system)
✅ Have salt on hand (if low, we may need to add during service)

Helpful info to share when you call:

• Age of system (how long since install?)

• Last service date (if known)

• Water usage (people in household, irrigation use)

• Symptoms (hard water, low pressure, leaks, error codes)

What You Get

✔ Restored performance—system softening properly (or realistic expectations if conditioner)
✔ Proper settings—regeneration schedule optimized for your water usage
✔ Maintenance plan—what to watch, when to service, how to prevent problems
✔ Tankless heater protection—soft water extends tankless life, reduces descaling frequency
✔ Workmanship warranty—[X years] on service work

Why Boise Homeowners Choose The Tankless Plumber for Water Quality

Water Softeners in Older Boise Homes — Critical Warning

If your home was built before 1980 and has galvanized supply lines, softened water accelerates corrosion.

Why: Galvanized pipes rely on mineral scale to protect interior walls. Soft water (no minerals) removes this protective layer, exposing bare steel to corrosion. Result: rust, leaks, restricted flow within 5-10 years.

What to do:

1. Inspect pipes first: If you have galvanized supply lines, assess condition before installing softener

2. Consider selective softening: Soften only hot water (protects tankless/water heater), leave cold water hard (protects galvanized)

3. Plan for re-pipe: If galvanized is aging, budget for PEX/copper replacement before softening

4. Use salt-free conditioner: Doesn't remove minerals, won't accelerate corrosion (but also won't prevent tankless scale as well)

We'll assess your plumbing during service visit and recommend the safest approach for your home.

Water Softener Troubleshooting — Before You Call

If water is still hard (spots on dishes, no lather):

1. Check bypass valve: Make sure it's in "service" position (water flowing through system, not bypassed)

2. Check salt level: Should be 3-6" above water level in brine tank

3. Look for salt bridge: Tap salt surface with broom handle—if it sounds hollow, bridge present

4. Test water hardness: Buy test strips at hardware store—test inlet vs. outlet

If salt level isn't dropping:

1. Salt bridge present: Break up and remove

2. System not regenerating: Check power (if electric), listen for valve movement during scheduled regeneration

3. Demand-based settings too high: System thinks you're using less water than actual

If brine tank has too much water:

1. Float valve stuck: Clean or replace

2. Drain line clogged: Clear obstruction

3. Injector clogged: Requires disassembly, cleaning

When to call (don't DIY):

• Resin beads in plumbing (brown/tan beads at faucet aerators = internal screen failed)

• No regeneration despite power/settings (control valve failure)

• Hard water after regeneration (resin bed exhausted or fouled)

• Leaks at valve body or tank (o-rings, seals, or structural failure)

Water Softener Maintenance Schedule

Monthly

• Check salt level (maintain 3-6" above water in brine tank)

• Add salt if needed (don't overfill—max 2/3 full)

Every 3-6 Months

• Inspect brine tank (look for salt bridging, mushing, water level)

• Clean salt grid (platform at tank bottom—keeps salt from compacting)

• Check for leaks (connections, drain line, bypass valves)

Annually

• Professional service (valve cleaning, settings verification, hardness test)

• Check resin bed condition (manual regeneration cycle, check for channeling)

• Sanitize system (resin bed cleaner if iron buildup present)

Every 5-10 Years

• Resin bed replacement (if fouled beyond cleaning or efficiency declining)

• Control valve rebuild (o-rings, seals, motor if electronic)

Water Softener Sizing — Is Yours Right?

Softener capacity = grains of hardness it can remove before regenerating

Example calculation for Boise home:

• Water hardness: 12 gpg (grains per gallon)

• Daily water use: 80 gallons/person × 4 people = 320 gallons/day

• Daily hardness removal needed: 320 gallons × 12 gpg = 3,840 grains/day

• Regeneration frequency: If softener is 32,000-grain capacity, regenerates every 8-9 days

Undersized system symptoms:

• Regenerates every 2-3 days (too frequent = salt waste, water waste)

• Hard water breakthrough before regeneration (system exhausted early)

Oversized system symptoms:

• Regenerates every 20-30 days (infrequent regeneration = resin bed fouling, bacterial growth)

We'll calculate proper sizing during service visit and recommend adjustments or replacement if needed.

What About Iron, pH, and Other Water Issues?

Common Boise-area water problems beyond hardness:

Iron (well water, older city mains)

• Symptoms: Rust stains on fixtures, laundry; metallic taste; yellow/brown water

• Treatment: Iron filter (if >0.3 ppm), water softener (if <0.3 ppm), chlorine injection + filter (if bacteria present)

• Warning: Iron fouls softener resin—requires frequent cleaning or specialized iron-removal resin

pH (acidity/alkalinity)

• Symptoms: Blue-green stains (acidic), scale buildup (alkaline)

• Treatment: Acid neutralizer (if pH <6.5), none needed if pH 7-8.5

• Boise water: Typically 7.5-8.0 (neutral to slightly alkaline)

Chlorine (city water)

• Symptoms: Taste/odor, dry skin

• Treatment: Carbon filter (whole-house or under-sink)

• Warning: Chlorine damages softener resin over time—carbon filter upstream extends resin life

TDS (Total Dissolved Solids)

• Symptoms: Cloudy water, off-taste (if very high)

• Treatment: Reverse osmosis (for drinking water), none needed for whole-house

• Boise water: Typically 150-250 ppm (acceptable range)

We can coordinate lab testing if you suspect issues beyond hardness (fees apply).

Service Area — Treasure Valley

Boise (North End, East End, Bench, Downtown, Foothills) • Meridian • Eagle • Kuna • Star • Nampa • Caldwell • Middleton • Nearby Treasure Valley communities

FAQ — Water Softeners & Conditioners

Q: What's the difference between a water softener and a water conditioner?
A:

• Water softener (salt-based): Removes hardness via ion exchange. Hardness drops from 12 gpg to 0-3 gpg (measurable, verifiable). Requires salt, drain line. Actually softens water.

• Water conditioner (salt-free): Changes hardness mineral structure so they don't adhere to surfaces as easily. Hardness minerals stay in water (still 12 gpg). Does not soften water—it reduces scale formation.

Bottom line: Softeners remove hardness. Conditioners reduce scale. Not the same thing.

Q: Why is my softener still using salt but water feels hard?
A: Most common causes:

1. Bypass valve partially open (some hard water mixing with soft)

2. Resin bed exhausted (fouled with iron, sediment, or chlorine damage)

3. Settings wrong (hardness level input incorrect, regeneration not triggered)

4. Salt bridge (salt not dissolving = no regeneration happening)

5. Control valve failure (stuck in bypass, motor failure, timer issue)

Solution: Hardness test (inlet vs. outlet) pinpoints the problem. If outlet is still hard, one of the above is the cause.

Q: Will a water softener or conditioner help my water heater last longer?
A: Yes, significantly—if it's a softener.

• Tankless water heaters: Soft water reduces scale buildup in heat exchanger = longer life, fewer repairs, less frequent descaling (12-18 months vs. 6-12 months)

• Tank water heaters: Soft water reduces sediment accumulation = quieter operation, better efficiency, longer tank life (10-15 years vs. 6-10 years)

• Salt-free conditioners: Less effective for tankless protection (minerals still present, just theoretically less adherent). Most manufacturers still require annual descaling.

Cost savings: $200-500/year in avoided repairs + 3-5 years added lifespan = $2,000-5,000 over water heater life.

Q: How often should my system be serviced?
A:

• Water softener: Annually (valve cleaning, settings check, hardness test)

• Heavy use or iron issues: Every 6 months

• Salt-free conditioner: Every 3-5 years (media replacement)

DIY maintenance: Check salt monthly, inspect brine tank every 3-6 months.

Q: Do you replace systems if needed?
A: Yes—quoted after evaluation. We'll recommend replacement if:

• Repair cost >50% of new system

• Obsolete brand/model (parts unavailable)

• Major component failure (resin tank cracked, control valve body failed)

• System undersized for household

• Efficiency upgrade makes sense (old system wastes salt/water)

Typical replacement cost: $1,200-2,500 installed (standard residential system, 32,000-48,000 grain capacity).

Q: Can I use potassium chloride instead of sodium chloride (salt)?
A: Yes, but:

• 3-4x more expensive ($25-40 per bag vs. $6-8 for salt)

• Less efficient (requires 10-15% more potassium to achieve same hardness removal)

• Same regeneration process (still requires drain line, backwash)

Best for: People on sodium-restricted diets, septic systems sensitive to sodium.

Q: Will soft water make my hair/skin feel different?
A: Yes—and opinions vary:

• Most people prefer it: Softer skin, better hair texture, soap lathers easily

• Some feel "slippery": Soft water rinses soap more completely—no mineral film left behind = slippery feel (this is normal)

• Adjustment period: Takes 1-2 weeks to get used to soft water if coming from hard

Q: Is softened water safe to drink?
A: Generally yes, but:

• Sodium content increases: ~12 mg/L per grain of hardness removed (Boise 12 gpg = ~140 mg/L sodium added)

• For context: One slice of bread = 150 mg sodium; softened water = 140 mg/L

• Concern: People on low-sodium diets (heart disease, high blood pressure)

• Solution: Don't soften cold kitchen tap OR install reverse osmosis for drinking water

Q: What's salt bridging, and how do I fix it?
A: Salt bridge = hard crust of salt forms in brine tank, creating hollow cavity underneath. Water can't dissolve salt = no regeneration = hard water.

Causes:

• High humidity

• Wrong salt type (rock salt forms bridges more than pellets)

• Overfilled tank

Fix:

1. Turn off water to softener (bypass or main shutoff)

2. Break crust: Tap with broom handle—if hollow sound, bridge present

3. Remove chunks: Break up and remove hardened salt

4. Clean tank: Rinse if mushy salt at bottom

5. Add fresh salt: Don't overfill (max 2/3 full)

6. Resume service

Prevention: Use high-purity pellet salt, don't overfill tank, check monthly.

Q: Can a water softener remove iron?
A: Depends on iron level and type:

• <0.3 ppm (clear water iron): Standard softener resin can handle it—may need frequent cleaning

• 0.3-3 ppm: Specialized iron-removal resin required (or iron filter upstream)

• >3 ppm: Dedicated iron filter required (softener can't handle high levels)

• "Rust" staining already present: Iron bacteria (biological) requires chlorine treatment + filtration

We can test iron levels and recommend appropriate treatment.

Q: Why does my softener regenerate in the middle of the night?
A: By design—regeneration uses 40-80 gallons of water and takes 90-120 minutes. Scheduled overnight (usually 2 AM) so you don't lose water pressure during showers, laundry, etc.

If it's regenerating at wrong times: Settings wrong (clock not set) or demand-based system triggering too often (capacity setting wrong).

Q: Can I take the softener offline for a few days?
A: Yes—put in bypass mode (turn valve handle to bypass position). Water flows around system (hard water to house). Useful for:

• Repairs

• Extended absence (no unnecessary regeneration)

• Testing if softener is causing low pressure

Don't forget to return to service mode when done.

Q: What if I have a septic system?
A: Softeners are generally safe for septic, but:

• Backwash water: 40-80 gallons per regeneration discharged to septic (manageable for properly-sized system)

• Salt/sodium: Beneficial bacteria tolerate sodium at softener discharge levels

• Potassium alternative: If concerned, use potassium chloride instead of sodium chloride

Drain line placement matters: Don't discharge directly into septic tank—drain to leach field distribution box if possible.

Related Services

• Tankless water heater descaling — Water heater service + annual descaling

• Annual system maintenance plans — Softener service + tankless descaling packages

• Hidden leaks near equipment — Leak detection + repair

• Fixture scale damage — Faucet replacement + fixture service

📞 Call/Text: 208-995-6791
✉ Email: tanklessplumber@yahoo.com

Hard water damaging your home? Let's fix your system.